After rushing around over the last week preparing for our sail to Pitcairn, we’re more-or-less ready to go and plan to set off tomorrow. The sail will take us about a month and we’ll be without internet for that time (apart from some minimal communication via the satellite phone email). Also, as Pitcairn has a mere population of just 56 people – it’s unlikely we’ll have internet there either. We’ll be sending some blog posts to my brother via the satellite phone which he’ll post on our behalf, but unfortunately there might not be any photos for a while. I know that some of you (well, just my mum really) would like to see more photos of me. Unfortunately, as the photographer I rarely have photos of myself. Alex kindly took this one for me recently, not that I asked him to take it mind you!
Probably not the sort of the thing you see every day. It’s incredible the sorts of problems that cease to amaze you once you’ve been living on a boat for a little while:
So, I was pumping away the other day flushing the head when I felt some resistance. It cleared (thankfully) but then the water coming in turned grey/black. I pumped some more, it cleared, I shrugged and thought nothing more of it.
Sarah has recently expressed concerns that she doesn’t think she is learning all this nautical mumbo jumbo fast enough. I disagree wholeheartedly, and I think the events of two nights ago demonstrate this beautifully.
It was about midnight and we’d just settled in for a lovely night of blissful unconsciousness when our still semi-conscious minds were dragged rudely back to the world by the sound of a boat letting go it’s anchor at a range that sounded like it could well have been into our own bunk.
“That sounds very close”, said Sarah.
“It does indeed”, I agreed.
At this point Sarah performed a meerkat manoeuvre and stuck her head out through the forward hatch to take a look. A local dive charter boat was dropping their anchor about 20 feet off our port beam.
“But if the wind comes around to the North, won’t they hit us?”, said Sarah.
“Yup”, said I.
At this juncture I considered it prudent to have a delicate word with the captain of the dive boat and, without getting too agitated, try to explain that in my opinion his choice of anchoring spot was less than ideal. I went up on deck to the cockpit and called out to one of their tenders.
“Senor! Habla Ingles?”, was my first enquiry, which was met with a vague sound which suggested not.
“Tengo dos anclas” (I have two anchors), “Uno aqui y uno ayi” (one here (pointing to the bow) and one there (pointing to the stern))*.
“Si! Es bueno!”(Yes! It’s fine!), came back from the guy in the boat.
In my opinion it was not fine, but I wasn’t going to make a scene and make the locals angry, so I waited a few minutes to see if they might re-consider. If they set a stern anchor like us, then all would be well and there was no cause for concern. Perhaps they were planning to do so.
A few minutes past and it appeared that they had finished with whatever they were doing. It couldn’t really be described as anchoring. As Sarah pointed out,
“But they haven’t let out any scope at all! And they haven’t even set the anchor, they’ve just dumped it on the bottom with the chain in a pile! Did it even reach the bottom?!”
I decided to nip over and have a chat, this time with someone a little more willing and able to appreciate my concerns. El Capitan. Fortunately he spoke a little English. With his bad English and my bad Spanish I managed to convey my concerns such that he was aware of them. I explained that since we had two anchors out we would not move with the wind. I also pointed out that he was very close to us (there was absolutely no need for this – the anchorage was almost empty and there was plenty of room elsewhere). He dismissed my concerns.
“I be here. I watch.” he said.
I felt there wasn’t much more I could do. Maybe I was wrong (I often am) and my concerns were unfounded. After all, this guy does this every day doesn’t he?
I returned to Bob, told Sarah what had transpired and we went to sleep. Not for long. There was a noise. One becomes incredibly sensitive to odd noises when living on a boat. It’s really quite phenomenal. One has no trouble at all sleeping while the boat is moving up and down 6 feet every two seconds, heeled over 15 degrees and there are all manner of things banging around, wind whistling through the rigging, a block on deck banging, lines creaking and sundry items in the cabin throwing themselves from one side of a locker to the other every time the boat rolls. But the minute there is a sound that does not belong, however faint it may be, the music changes and one wakes with surprising sprightliness to determine the cause of the change, for change at sea (or even in an anchorage as in this case) can have dire consequences if one is unprepared (such as when asleep!).
In this case, the noise was a light thump. I was on deck sharpish, and all manner of ‘not wanting to piss-off the locals’ went out of the window. I picked up the nearest hard object (a paddle; plastic unfortunately) and whacked the hull of the charter boat with it repeatedly, while shouting loudly and angrily in an attempt to garner the attention of the skipper. No luck. The skipper was on shore somewhere having a few drinks (not ‘watching’ as he had promised), but I did succeed in raising one of his minions, who immediately jumped into their workboat and, having already untied it, tried in vain to start it’s engine while drifting off into the night. Sarah and I had limited sympathy for him. We succeeded in pushing the boat away from us to avoid further damage to Bob and then stood and scowled at the man while he tried all sorts of things to get it to work.
Unfortunately, it did work in the end. I had rather hoped that we might be required to save him, but alas. With his workboat he pushed the charter boat away from Bob and then made a phone call to ‘El Capitan’. By this point it was about 2am. I had a rum and watched. ‘El Capitan’ took a while. Once he turned up, they did what they should have done in the first place and set a stern anchor, then went back to shore and left the minion on his own again. Bob sustained superficial scrapes to the gelcoat, plus a scrape through the bottom paint and barrier coat beneath the waterline, but no structural damage. No apology. No explanation (there couldn’t have been one anyway) and no attempt to reconcile anything with us. I learned an unfortunate lesson though, and that was probably worth a scrape or two. Next time, be more persuasive.
*Here in Santa Cruz the wind dies out at night, but the swells continue to come in through the mouth of the harbour and into the anchorage. A monohull sailboat rolls abominably from side to side if broad-side to a swell when at anchor, so we had set a secondary anchor off the stern in order to keep Bob facing the mouth of the bay (and into the swells) at all times. This means that the boat does not move with the wind (if there is any) but instead stays in exactly the same spot at all times. This is unlike a boat which is anchored only from the bow, which moves around with the wind always facing into it.
Here is a picture of our not-so-friendly neighbour. Photo courtesy of their website:
We’re back in Santa Cruz and a great deal has happened since my last blog post. I completed my diving course back in San Cristobal and I’m now a fully qualified PADI Open Water diver, woohoo! Although I must admit, it wasn’t without complications and my confidence as a diver isn’t quite at the level it should be. The course itself turned out to be very interesting indeed! The instructor ended up being a bit of a cowboy and didn’t teach me all of the skills I should have learned. Out of those I did learn, most were only repeated once and I never got chance to practice and really get a grip with those skills I struggled with. Another unfortunate event happened after the last dive of the course when the instructor decided to make an advance on me whilst we were waiting for the taxi to pick us up. Of course the first person I told was Alex and he made sure I was never alone with him again. I suspect it was pretty obvious to my instructor the reason Alex was sat right next to me during my theory lessons the next day. Overall it was quite amusing really, if a bit awkward, but I learnt a lot in the end. The Galapagos Islands really are an amazing place to dive and I got to see some amazing wildlife including sting rays, golden rays, green turtles, sand eels, moray eels, giant puffer fish and at one point I had a sea lion pup playing with my fins – pretty amazing! Also, later on in Santa Cruz we bumped into some friends of ours. Apolline (the French girl I mentioned in some of my previous posts) and Marc (who is the captain of a boat called Pilas, who Christian [the Italian guy who came with us through the canal] was on). Incidentally, due to various office politics, Apolline and Christian switched boats so now she is with Marc on Pilas and Christian moved to the French boat. Aaaanyway…. Apolline is also a diving instructor so she took me for a dive at the anchorage so I could practice some of the skills I felt less confident with – it helped a great deal. There is also a random boat out there somewhere in the world with pictures of flowers, fish, stars and Apollines phone number sketched into the growth on their hull. Before we left for Santa Cruz we spent some time being proper tourists in San Cristobal and took a taxi to see some of the sites. El Junco
A trek near Playa Mann
The sail back to Santa Cruz
Back in Santa Cruz we spent a lot of time with Apolline, Marc and the rest of their crew, as well as making some local friends. As Marc and his crew can all speak Spanish it was easy for them to make friends here and therefore, easy for us to poach them 🙂 Although now they have left the Galapagos Islands, communication with the locals is a little harder. Pilas set sail for the Marquesas Islands a few days ago and although we are heading for Pitcairn and the Gambia Islands before Marquesas, Marc is keen to take his time so I hope we’ll see them again in a few months.
The trials of being 32 years old are taking their toll on Alex already and a few weeks ago he badly injured his neck simply by turning over in bed and he could barely move for two days. In an effort to compensate for the reduced movement in his neck, he overused the muscles in his back and sure enough a week later he was paralysed once again. On the plus side – I’ve become very strong over the past few weeks as it’s been my job to do all the rowing in the dinghy, most of the manual labour on the boat, carrying bags and lifting all the heavy things which Alex would normally do. I’ve even become a seasoned mechanic and did a lot of work on the main engine whilst Alex was incapacitated, which seems to have more-or-less fixed the leak problem. I say ‘more-or-less’ because it still leaks a little, but the leak has now reduced from a continuous dribble of liquid leaking about a pint of oil every 6 hours to just 1 or 2 drops per minute. We also have a spare attachment so if the leak gets worse again we have something else we can replace it with. In fact, the entire engine has had a bit of an overhaul recently with an oil change, new throttle cable, new belt and a serviced fuel filter so it should (hopefully) now be much happier. Unfortunately, the mechanic supplies in the Galapagos are very limited and we’ve had to come up with some innovative solutions to get what we need. This is less than ideal because jobs are taking much more time than they normally would, cost more money and in some cases, not fully fixing the problem. Still, we’ve done all we can and hopefully the engine will run smoothly from now on. Alex’s back and neck now seem to be 95% better, largely thanks to the skills of a Thai masseuse whose services were expensive, but were worth every penny given that Alex is no longer paralyzed! The timing has worked out well because I’ll soon be starting some volunteering with the Charles Darwin Research Station and Alex can occupy himself once again with boat work, although he’s banned from doing anything too strenuous for a while! I met Gustavo, a scientist at the research station, to discuss how I might be able to help them. He coordinates a really interesting project doing population monitoring of three native or endemic bird species (Galapagos penguin, flightless cormorant and waved albatross), and the project has many parallels to ones I’ve been involved with in the past. He uses capture-mark-recapture techniques where he marks the species with PIT tags (similar to the tags used in your pet cats and dogs) to individually identify them. He also takes measurements such as weight, sex, breeding condition, heart rate, body measurements and takes blood samples for genetic testing and parasite monitoring. He is mainly looking to see how the population changes over time and also between different islands where some are pristine with little human influence and others are affected by the introduction of pest species. This should give some really useful information on how pest species are affecting the local wildlife, and over time, the effects of climate change. This in turn can be used to advise on intervention measures which will best enable the native wildlife to thrive. He has some surplus data from his project where he has collected records of all the vertebrate species encountered on the surveys. It is this data that he wants me to have a look at and do some statistical analysis on. If it all goes well, he is keen to share more data with me so we can analyse the effects of other variables. This is a really good project for me because I’m one of those strange people who really enjoys statistics. I find the project incredibly interesting, I think it’s nice to do something which I’m actually good at and also be part of a worthwhile cause. I can do the work from anywhere so I can continue to volunteer even after I leave Galapagos. Also, Gustavo is happy to list me as one of the authors of the papers he publishes as a result of the work – which is very very cool! I hope I get chance to do some field work with them before I leave as well, but if not, I’ve got a foot through the door and maybe it will lead to more opportunities in the future. One final thing to note, unfortunately my beautiful hot pink IPhone is no more. It went in the water during a dubious dinghy ride to shore a few weeks ago when a wave caught us by surprise and flipped us over. Apologies if anyone has tried to contact me via WhatsApp as I won’t have received those messages. If anyone wants to get in touch please email me or send a Facebook message and I’ll pick it up when I’m next online. I think that covers just about everything… other than crabs (in the kitchen sink), an octopus in the toilet and a collision with a dive boat…
Well, it’s been a fun filled and action packed few weeks since we arrived in Galapagos. I absolutely love it here so far; the people are very friendly and attempt to understand our bad Spanish, the towns are nicely maintained and although very new, they have a lot of character; and of course the wildlife is absolutely amazing. The first thing I noticed when I came to shore was that sea lions appear to have taken over the town. They sleep on the beaches, pavements, seating benches, the dingy dock and even take over peoples boats if they have an unguarded low transom or swim platform. I often swim next to Bob and have one or two of them come and say hello and play around the hull of the boat. We’ve also seen large sharks, sting rays, green turtles, frigate birds, brown pelicans, blue footed boobies and much more without having to even leave the boat. This place really is spectacular and I would recommend that any wildlife enthusiast should visit here if they can.
Of course one of the reasons for racing to the Galapagos was to meet my mum who was coming to visit. We headed to Santa Cruz (one of the more developed islands) to meet her as this is where the main airport is. I’ve been really keen for her to experience a bit of my lifestyle – to visit a really interesting part of the world, to see the boat, to meet Alex and to relax properly because she works far too hard. Living on the sea is definitely not my mum’s natural habitat and even at anchor she was sea sick. Still, she didn’t let that stop her from coming aboard on numerous occasions, swimming off the side of the boat, drinking and having dinner with us – we just made sure she was dosed up on Stugeron first. We had a really amazing 8 days visiting the various corners of Santa Cruz. We had heard that it was difficult to get around in Galapagos as the majority of terrestrial and marine areas are a designated national park and you’re legally required to have a guide with you at all times within designated areas. As guides generally cost $60-$100 per person per day, this was not going to be an option as we’re on a tight budget – especially considering how much we paid just to go through immigration and get our cruising permit. Luckily, this is not the case and there are plenty of places to visit without having to be accompanied by a guide.
We visited a number of beaches, including Tortuga Bay which is probably one of the prettiest beaches I’ve ever visited. It’s a vast stretch of white powdery sand with turquoise crystal clear waters and hardly any people. It’s quite a long walk, about 40 minutes, along a cobbled path made through a sort of cactus forest filled with lava lizards, various small finches and other endemic birds. It can be a tough walk in the midday heat but definitely worth it to get to Tortuga Bay.
We also visited Garrapatero beach which is a 20 minute taxi journey away – another beautiful secluded beach which often has pink flamingos nearby – unfortunately we didn’t see any during our visit that day. The final beach we went to was the Playa de Estacion (Station Beach) which was part of the Darwin Research Station and is great for snorkelling and seeing marine iguanas and sally light foot crabs.
We also had a lovely day touring some of the more iconic places in Santa Cruz. We visited two giant craters known as Los Gamelos (The Twins) which are two collapsed magma chambers which provide great wildlife habitat and offer wonderful views into the chamber itself. We also visited an underground lava tunnel where we had to clamber over rocks and crawl through small spaces to get to the other side – great fun. Finally, we spent some time in the Giant Tortoise Reserve (El Chato) which was absolutely fantastic. Getting up close to these amazing ancient creatures felt like stepping back in time. The reserve was a mosaic of habitats including established woodland, scrubby habitat, small ponds and open grassland where many of the tortoises spend most of their days grazing. They are barely fazed by human presence and we were able to get within 2 meters of most of them. We could have touched them if we had so wished, but we didn’t due to the polite pleas of the reserve manager.
Paulina (Alex’s mum) also came out to visit for just under 5 days and managed to overlap with my mum’s visit for a day which was really great. We all went out for dinner and drinks in the evening so that our mums could get to know each other and also to celebrate Alex’s birthday. Despite his borderline depression of turning 32, he still seemed very happy to receive his birthday presents – especially the 6 jars of Parson’s pickled cockles from my mum which I’ve now hid in various corners of the boat!
I said goodbye to my mum which was particularly difficult as I know it’s going to be a long time before I next see her. Still, we both have a lot to keep us busy in the meantime so I’m sure the time will go quickly. We were fortunate to have Paulina’s company for another 3 days or so and it was great to spend time relaxing on Bob with her, shopping and visiting various bars and restaurants. Paulina loves to swim so we took her to Las Grietas which is a salt water gorge with rocky cliffs at either side and beautiful clear water. It’s a very refreshing swim and with a bar only a few minutes away surrounded by salt water lakes, where better to go?
We said goodbye to Paulina yesterday and we’re now getting ready to head back to San Cristobal as I’m going to take my PADI open water scuba course there (it’s $150 dollars cheaper than here in Santa Cruz). It was so great to see both our mums and we miss you both already! Thank you for coming all this way to see us, for bringing all that stuff with you from home and for the money you spent on us. Paulina I promise we will not be doing laundry by hand for a long time! 🙂