Semi-Technical Spiel on Anchoring in the Tuamotus

Sarah would say that I have an unhealthy obsession with anchors and anchoring. She’s probably right, but I am nevertheless going to indulge myself by mentioning a little trick that we learned while we were in the Tuamotus and which I have become an advocate of. I apologise if I get carried away; if you’re not a boater (and even if you are) you might just want to skip this post!

The problem with anchoring in the Tuamotus is that although there are an abundance of beautiful places to visit, there aren’t really any proper anchorages. Furthermore, things can get pretty nasty if you find yourself on the wrong side of a lagoon when the wind shifts around to leave you with your stern to the reef and a few miles of fetch ahead, as we discovered last December in Amanu. The anchorages are generally between 15 and 25 meters deep (45 to 75 feet) and there are numerous coral heads that stick up every 15 feet or so. It’s simply not possible to find a nice, sandy, unobstructed bottom to anchor on, so even if you do manage to lay your chain out along the seabed without snagging anything you’re sure to wrap it around at least one coral head as soon as the wind shifts a few degrees. This is decidedly not great for the coral and also very dangerous for your boat. You can very quickly find yourself unable to raise your anchor and with very short scope such that the chain snatches at the bow and threatens to rip your bow cleats or windlass out of the deck, if it doesn’t snap first. You can always let out more scope, but how much do you have?

Back when we were in Hao last year we had the good fortune to meet some strong advocates of a technique that I had previously read about and mused on. We gave it a go. The idea is to suspend a portion of your anchor chain in the water column such that it passes over the tops of the coral heads as the boat swings, rather than wrapping around the bases. You need solid buoys ideally because soft buoys (such as fenders) will compress and shrink with increasing depth due to water pressure, whereas solid buoys maintain a constant internal volume and therefore consistent buoyancy. Fortunately such buoys are very easy to come by in French Polynesia because the pearl farmers use them and they frequently come adrift in large numbers. Just take a walk down any windward beach (East-facing) and you’ll be able to pick some up.

We started out by letting out the normal amount of scope for whatever depth we were in and then buoying an extra portion at the end so that if (when!) the chain on the bottom got wrapped we’d still have a good bit of slack to play with to stop the chain from snatching. This was fine but because it would still get tangled at the bottom I didn’t like the damage that was being done to the reef from the chain moving about all over the place. We played around with it a bit and have now figured out where on the chain to place buoys so that only the very last bit of chain stays on the bottom. Below is a series of pictures which illustrate the principle quite well (taken by Sarah of course 🙂 )

First section of chain (above).

 

 

 

Bottom section of chain. You can also see the abundance of coral heads scattered about. In fact, this was the best anchorage we found in the entirety of our time in the Tuamotus, at ‘7 reef’, Tahanea.

 

 

One drawback to this technique is that the boat moves about a bit more in light winds because there’s no weight of chain sitting on the bottom that needs to be dragged about, and which stops you from drifting about willy-nilly with every slight puff of breeze. Perhaps a more important drawback is that the effect of catenary (the sagging of the chain due to it’s weight, which helps to keep the pull on the anchor as close to horizontal as possible) is lost, but we feel that the advantages are far more numerous than these two slight disadvantages. I would argue that the effect of catenary is minimal in high winds anyway. If the buoys are arranged correctly then the angle of pull with buoys on the chain should be the same as it would be in high winds, when the chain would be pulled out straight anyway and it’s weight would only serve to increase the load on the deck gear, which normally has to support the vertical weight of the chain as well as the horizontal force holding the boat in place. With buoys, the anchor has to work a little harder than it might under normal conditions but this becomes less true as wind speed increases (and the chain loses it’s sag) until it virtually disappears at very high wind speeds (incidentally, tests have shown that a 7:1 scope is sufficient to maintain a sufficiently-shallow angle of pull on the anchor with a rope (near-zero-catenary) rode and that increasing scope further yields negligible benefit). Since the bow gear no longer has to support the weight of the chain (because the buoys now support this weight), the forces on your boat are considerably reduced in a deep anchorage. A large part of the vertical component of the force acting on your bow is removed; what remains is the horizontal component that is necessary to keep your boat in place. Thus, even in 25 knots sustained wind I can take up on the snubber line by hand, inspect the chafing gear for wear, make fine adjustments etc. and I sleep better because I don’t have to listen to the snubber line creaking over my head whenever a swell puts a sudden load on it.

We now use buoys in any deep anchorage regardless of whether there are obstructions on the bottom or not.

 

Finally, here’s one more picture that nicely illustrates what a moderate squall looks like. This boat was anchored astern of us as one came through. We were sheltered from chop behind a spit of reef ahead so there’s no sea running, but you can get an idea of the wind strength by the fact that the surface of the water appears to be smoking as the wind lifts the water into the air. This one was maybe 35 knots max. Not too bad.

 

 

 

 

 

Disclaimer: All of the above spiel is pure conjecture on my part. My practical Physics may well be lacking. If you think it is, I’m all ears for rebuttals!

The wall of sharks

After leaving Tahanea, we made our way to Fakarava about 40 miles to the north-west. Fakarava is different from all the atolls we’ve visited in the Tuamotus so far. We entered through the south pass and arrived to an area completely set up for tourists. There are no shops, only a few B&Bs, restaurants and dives shops. Although the area had a bit of a ‘holiday resort’ feel to it, I absolutely loved it here. The people are really used to tourists so of course are incredibly friendly, welcoming and helpful – and SPOKE ENGLISH! Despite this, all the buildings still had a local Polynesian feel about them. They were built in such a way to make the most of the surroundings and were absolutely immaculate. This atoll is a marine reserve where fishing is restricted, so the coral reefs and associated species were out of this world. The south pass (being narrow, long and deep) is home to an abundance of different fish species which you would struggle to see in such abundance anywhere else. It reminded me a little of visiting Disneyland as a child, everything is amazing and perfectly placed for the enjoyment of their guests. Even the sharks would come right up to your boat when anchoring, like they too were welcoming us to the area.

The centre-hub of Tetamanu

Some of the guest houses at the Tetamanu Pension. Mum I think you would love it here. Perhaps a future holiday destination when we make our millions and can afford the flights?

Fakarava is famous for scuba diving, in particular for its ‘wall of sharks’ dive along the south pass. It seemed to me that this was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, so we decided to fork out some dosh and do a dive with the local company run by the Tetamanu Pension. I would recommend this company to anyone – it’s a combined dive shop, B&B and restaurant run by a wonderful couple who made us feel incredibly welcome. So for my 8th scuba dive ever I decided to do the infamous ‘wall of sharks’, despite my initial trepidation. The dive boat dropped us off at one end of the pass and we were able to let the current take us effortlessly back towards the dive shop. The pass is blanketed with a multitude of colourful branching and boulder corals, providing shelter to a wealth of fish species. Hundreds of bigeyes, snappers, groupers and tuna lined the pass. All swimming effortlessly upstream, appearing suspended and motionless in the water just waiting for the current to languidly push an unsuspecting prey victim into their mouths. Swimming in the same manner was literally hundreds of sharks, which of course was the true spectacle of the dive and gives a real meaning to the name ‘wall of sharks’. Most were grey sharks and whitetip reef sharks, but we knew that other species of shark weren’t far away. The dive shop offer other packages which take you further into the deep blue and allow you to see dolphins and large oceanic sharks such as Silvertips! I think I’ll save that one for a future date however. Even the terrace of the dive shop restaurant stretches out into the water where tonnes of blacktip reef sharks circle waiting for scraps of food to be discarded by the restaurant customers. If you’re feeling daring, you can even go for a snorkel with them if you’re the thrill-seeking type.

A small selection of the grey sharks we saw during the ‘wall of sharks’ scuba dive

Alex with a slightly terrifying backdrop

Blacktip reef shark cruising along

Blacktip reef sharks racing for food scraps near the restaurant at Tetamanu Pension

We briefly visited some of the other areas of Fakarava, including a 5 year old ‘yacht facility’ located half way up the east side of the atoll. The area is owned by a young couple who operate a small B&B and various yacht services such as wifi, mooring buoys, good meals, beers and a skilled helping hand to any boat problem. The main village in the north is home to some 2000 inhabitants. Despite the large population (well, large in comparison to other atoll in the Tuamotus), shops are still expensive and understocked unless the supply ship has just landed.

We left Fakarava about a week ago and we’re now currently in Tahiti waiting for Alex’s mum to arrive for her visit in a few days time – the days can’t go by fast enough. We’ve been here for just over a day and already we’ve enjoyed a McDonalds and been shopping at the Carrefour – the best selection of food I’ve seen in well over a year! Tahiti might not be as picturesque as our previous destinations, but I’m certainly enjoying the development and access to amenities. I’ve been craving people, shops, bars, restaurants and general development for quite some time now. Although I wouldn’t admit it to other cruisers, Tahiti has always been at the top of my ‘must visit’ list and I feel more at home right now than I have in a long, long time.

The most beautiful place in the world?

Having visited two of the atolls in the Tuamotus at the end of last year I already had an idea that they are a sight to behold, but nothing could prepare me for the splendour of Tahanea. This deserted atoll is breathtakingly beautiful with unspoilt sand bars, pioneering palm trees, turquoise waters and white sandy beaches carpeted with shells. I always thought that those photos you see in travel magazines advertising idyllic paradise getaways to secluded tropical islands were a bit of a fabrication. Not so. I’m actually in one of them, it’s the real deal and it’s just absolutely beautiful. But don’t just take my word for it…. have a look at these:

Tahanea after a spot of rain

 

Our anchorage near the main pass

I think these are Spinner dolphins. They came to say hello during our sail to Seven Reef at the south of the atoll

Anchored on our own at Seven Reef

Sand bar at Seven Reef

What’s that strange new species?

As you might expect in any deserted island, we spend our time snorkelling, spear fishing and coconut gathering. Tahanea is uninhabited apart from a small settlement that’s occupied for only four months of the year for the copra business. It might be uninhabited at the moment, but Tahanea is not much of a secret with the cruising community as there were already three sailboats here when we arrived. Not that this hindered us in any way, the presence of other sailboats inevitably led to new friendships being formed. Also, we managed to find a private place to anchor completely by ourselves for a number of days in a very protected area in the south of the atoll known as seven reef (as it looks like the number ‘7’ from the satellite imagery). This is the most stunning place I think Bob has ever anchored and the snorkelling around here is just fantastic.

The bird life here is also very special. Alex noticed a sign written in French which might have said that Tahanea is part of a wildlife reserve. Then again, it might have said that all people are free to hunt, kill and eat all the birds – we wouldn’t really have been able to tell the difference! Having said that, we were lucky enough to see what I think is the endangered Tuamotu sandpiper. I noticed a small brown bird that looked like it was an imitating a sand piper but with a shorter beak and seemingly more interested in the scrub habitat near the beach rather than the beach itself – more like a typical insect feeder. The bird also happened to have some rings on it’s legs. I had to do a double take as I thought it was very strange that bird ringing would be going on in this incredibly remote location, and this species certainly didn’t look like any of the usual sea birds I was used to seeing migrate across the oceans. Anyway, I read later on in the Tuamotus compendium that this bird is resident on Tahanea and is a highly endangered species endemic to the Tuamotus. Unfortunately I didn’t get a photo, but I did get some of these crested terns instead. Not in the slightest bit rare but their lives of long distance migration across the oceans is impressive nonetheless.

Crested Terns

Crested Terns

Return to Marquesas

Our time in the Tuamotus, for me, was educational. We were fortunate to be able to learn a few necessary lessons under more-or-less non-hazardous conditions.

The Tuamotus Archipelago is constituted of a hundred or so atolls – raised barrier reefs in a ring-shape with a lagoon in the middle. Some of the atolls are large (the average is about 20 miles by 9 miles) and have a pass through the reef that is wide and deep enough to allow the passage of a yacht. Wicked currents generally tear through these passes, and they are difficult to predict due to the sparsity of tide stations and the complexity of other influencing factors, such as the strength and direction of the winds, how long they have been blowing, the phase of the moon, the prevailing swell direction due to something that might have happened last week a thousand miles away and whether or not Neptune has woken up on the wrong side of the bed with a hangover. In a worst-case scenario a strong current opposes a large swell. This sets up large, steep standing waves which are hazardous enough to broach a large yacht. We read one account of a 60-something-foot yacht which had their cockpit filled twice while negotiating the pass at Hao. In our case, a slight misjudgment on my part led to a bumpy ride out of Hao but nothing dangerous. Lesson learned.

Another lesson was learned when we were caught out on the lee side of Amanu lagoon when the wind picked up to an un-forecast 25 knots. The fetch across the lagoon was 5 miles, which was sufficient to produce some sizable chop. To make matters worse, anchoring inside the lagoons of the Tuamotus usually involves anchoring amidst towering coral heads which snag and entangle your anchor chain. This was the case with us; the rocks had entangled the first 150-feet of our 300-foot scope. The only reason the other 150-feet wasn’t tangled up too is that we had by this point learned to suspend the last hundred feet or so of chain with buoys (if any sailors out there want to know more about this technique let me know and I’ll write a bit more). This helps to protect the coral as well as guaranteeing that you you will always have some scope, and the buoys help to absorb some of the shock loading, in conjunction with a good, long, stretchy snubber line. We spent about 12 hours anchored like this, unable to raise our anchor due to entanglement, unable to let out any more scope because we had it all out already (the water depth was 80′) and with Bob’s bow occasionally burying in the waves. No harm done. We’re ready to head back down there in a couple of months and begin our Tuamotus exploration much better equipped than we might have been.

The passage back North to Marquesas was good, though we were close reaching or close-hauled for all bar the last 6 hours of it. We also encountered violent squalls, but were able to see them coming in advance and shorten sail accordingly. We pulled in to Taiohae Bay, on the South Coast of Huku Hiva, at 9pm local time on December 31st. It was a very dark night as we came in. We dropped anchor behind a catamaran that we could just make out by the glow of her decks as they shone by the light of her mast-head anchor light. I had a rum, Sarah had a glass of wine (well, maybe more than one) and we turned in for a much-needed sleep.

The following morning we discovered that the catamaran anchored next to us was none other than our very good friends aboard El Nido, whom we had last seen in the Gambier Islands. Olivia and David are cruising with their two daughters, Gaya and Kali, who are 5 and 7 years old respectively. We had shared many wonderful days with them in the Gambier Islands and were exceptionally pleased to see them again. One month later, the vein of those wonderful days has continued, and we have come to regard the whole family as very special friends.

I think many people would be surprised to learn of the number of cruisers who are travelling as a family. Home-schooling means that the children do not miss out on their education in the slightest. Quite the opposite in fact – the opportunity for them meet so many children from different cultures, backgrounds and economic situations adds hugely to their personal development, and makes for incredibly well-rounded, precocious children who, in my opinion, get a head-start in life compared to the vast majority of their peers. Very few boats have teenagers on board because their requirements are somewhat different, but children in the age range of between about 2 and 11 seem to be well-suited to a cruising lifestyle. At least, that seems to be the case based on the families that we have met thus far.

We haven’t budged in a month now, and a very productive and enjoyable month it has been. Sarah has been working diligently on a statistical data analysis for the Charles Darwin Institute in Galapagos, and I have spent the time making small improvements and doing routine maintenance to Bob. We’ve been pretty shoddy tourists to be honest and have rarely ventured far beyond the shops near to the quay, instead spending our leisure time with fellow cruisers. The one exception to this was a day spent driving all over the island in a rented car. This is an incredibly beautiful place, and Sarah has some stunning landscape pictures to prove it. I’m sure they’ll be making an appearance in her next blog installment. In the meantime I’m afraid you’ll just have to take my word for it and make do with wading through my comparatively drab text 🙂

Our anchor chain has a wealth of growth on it from being submerged in the water column for so long. Sarah has finished her statistical paper, and I have finished my project (more in the next blog post about this). We’re tentatively booked to haul Bob out for a bottom job in Hiva Oa in about two weeks and would like to make a stop in Ua Huka before then, so we’re planning on raising anchor at some time in the next few days and going for a sail. We’re looking forward to it.

Frenchie On Board

I know what you’re probably thinking…… how could I possibly have agreed to spend six whole weeks with someone who comes from, of all the God-forsaken places on Earth – France?! All the British readers I’m sure will sympathise with me, having to share my home with a Frenchie. And not just any Frenchie, but one who is a fanatic about smelly cheeses, has dance moves that would put Michael Jackson to shame and who uses chocolate bread as means of instant self gratification! How could I possibly cope? I do have a good excuse, however, for allowing Charline to cross the boundary onto Bob and merge into our British crew. And my excuse is this: I was bribed… with these:

The huge and amazing pile of stuff that Charline brought for us from the UK

The huge and amazing pile of stuff that Charline brought for us from the UK

Honestly though, the idea of having Charline come to visit was a wonderful thought, not just because it would be lovely to see her and escape to some extent from the sailing world, but also because it would be nice for me to give Charline a fun, unusual and worthwhile experience. I am thrilled that she came all the way to French Polynesia to hang out with us for six weeks and indulge my cravings to talk about everything relating to England, my old work, dear friends and colleagues and topics of conversation that diverted from the usual subject of sailing.

After fighting the weather to get from Gambier to the Marquesas Islands, Alex and I made it to Hiva Oa in the nick of time for Charline’s arrival. Our first day with her was very special and we spent our time doing a treasure hunt that our friend Marc had set up for us. It was this treasure hunt that gave me the inspiration for Alex’s Christmas gift which I wrote about in my last blog post. Marc had set up the treasure hunt to lead us through jungle and across rivers, concluding the hunt at a historical site with large rocks and carved ancient Petroglyphs. As with any treasure hunt, we had to find a number of stopping points, each one with some treasure and a clue to the next point.  We got rum, chocolates, pasta sauce and fishing lures, but of course the true gift was the treasure hunt itself and the fun it generated. What a wonderful thing for Marc to do for us. It was also a great opportunity for Alex and Charline to get to know each other, and for me to chat to a familiar face about aspects of my old life, which I often miss.

Just made it the petroglyphs and our final piece of treasure

Just made it the petroglyphs and our final piece of treasure

We spent a few days in Hiva Oa before heading to another island called Tahuata for a few days, where we explored the village and went for a few swims and snorkels. It was good fun, one of the best places to snorkel in Marquesas as it’s one of the few bays with clear(ish) water. We saw lots of fish and rays – including a pair of sting rays who appeared to be mating. Charline got a little sea sick at first but to be fair, the anchorages in Marquesas can be uncomfortable and she got over it very quickly. She rapidly got used to life on board Bob – sleeping on a berth the size of a coffin, washing up in a bucket of salt water on deck to save our fresh water supplies, sweating in the tropical heat on board a boat with no air conditioning, etc. Of course there was also the beauty of the majestic high rise islands and the wonderful array of tropical plants and animals that go with them. The tranquillity of life on a boat, the lack of distractions and the novelty of being able to swim as you please were also part of the experience. I think, like with any lifestyle, there are good and bad points to the cruising existence and Charline got a fair taste of both.

Charline and I ready for our first snorkel in Tahuata

Charline and I ready for our first snorkel in Tahuata

I wanted to use the time during her visit to do more fun and ‘touristy’ things, as it’s something I don’t think Alex and I do enough of during this trip. We crammed in a lot during her visit and if I go into everything in detail I would be writing forever! Over the course of her six week visit, we:

  • Visited 5 different islands
  • Visited 8 different anchorages
  • Explored 6 different towns/villages
  • Went on 5 hikes/walks
  • Went to a music festival and hung out with the lead band
  • Did 6 fish surveys (including a night time survey)
  • Swam almost every day
  • Body surfed twice
  • Went wake boarding
  • Climbed the mast
  • Sailed with dolphins at least 3 times
  • Spent a total of six full days at sea (a total of 144 hours) over 7 passages, including a long distance ocean passage
  • Made friends with sailors from 7 different boats
  • Made bread, cheese, yoghurt, mayonnaise and coconut milk from scratch
  • Read lots of books, watched a few films and played more card games than I can count
Charline body surfings

Charline body surfings

Dolphins at the bow of the boat

Dolphins at the bow of the boat

After Tahuata we headed to Nuku Hiva to meet up with Marc, who we had not seen since the Galapagos Islands in May. It was so wonderful to see an old friend (I realise that we only met him 7 months previously so in that sense he isn’t exactly ‘old’, but in regards to my cruising life, Marc is one of the oldest friends I’ve made) and thank him for our wonderful treasure hunt. We hung out with Marc a lot, going on various walks, hanging out at the local cafe or having meals together on one another’s boats. We introduced him to ‘spoons’, which is a card game much like snap, except instead of slapping your hand on the table and shouting ‘snap’ as loudly as possible, you have to grab one of the spoons provided – and of course there was always one spoon short for the number of players. The game usually ends up with one person running around the boat with all of the spoons while the other players chase and tackle that person to the floor in a desperate attempt to not be left spoonless. It was really good fun!

Another reason for our visit to Nuku Hiva was for a music festival that’s held here every other year in November. The festival was an interesting mix of local Polynesian music, jazz and death metal! It was a good atmosphere and I’m happy we made it in time to join in. We inadvertently became groupies and made friends with the headlining band, although we didn’t know who they were at the time. We drew their attention when playing a game we’d recently invented which involves making a complete fool out of yourself by bending and twisting your body in such a way as to get a coconut shell the furthest distance from you without moving your feet and without putting your hands directly on the floor! It was good fun and we ended up hanging out with the band for few hours as a result. Charline and I spent some time admiring their striking arms which were covered in beautifully detailed traditional Polynesian tattoos. Alex has planned to get a Polynesian tattoo ever since his last visit to this part of the world over 13 years ago. The tattoos here are very traditional, are all unique and tell a story about the person they belong too. They really are exquisite and are designed in such a way that their beauty doesn’t change as the body ages. After seeing some of the tattoos here, and hearing what Alex would like for his own tattoo, I’m really excited for him and can’t wait to see the final result.

We visited a total of 3 bays in Nuku Hiva. The first was the main town of Taiohae, where the music festival was held, and we had access to shops, cafes and internet. The second bay (called Hakaui Bay) was probably the best anchorage I’ve seen so far in the Marquesas Islands. Not only is it incredibly well sheltered from the sea and the wind from most directions, the surrounding landscape is very striking with lush green striated ridges, majestically carved into the sides of the mountain valley. It was in this bay where we met some friendly locals tendering their land who were also pleased to be in our company for an hour or two. We met a lovely elderly couple who, for a very reasonable price of $10 per person, cooked us up a delicious lunchtime feast of 8 different local Marquesian dishes using local fish, chicken, bananas, coconuts, papayas and much more. We also had drinks with a young man who owned land and a house which, he claimed, used to belong to his ancestors who back in the day, were Polynesian royalty. He was only 26 years old but lived in the house by himself after his family died and left him the property. One of his possessions, which led to a number of interesting conversations, were the two human skulls he had in his hallway. The Polynesians have a long history of cannibalism, and whilst this tradition is no longer supported or practiced, this particular bay has a bad reputation owing to one crazy individual about 4 years ago who murdered and cannibalised a passing sailor. Although we are perfectly safe and the murderer is now in prison, the sight of the skulls sent a worrying chill down my spine. Four years is not a long time, I thought, maybe the guy who lives here was friends with the cannibal man and also had a taste for human flesh. I’m just being paranoid, I kept saying to myself, there’s nothing to fear!

In the end, I really needn’t have worried; the man was harmless and very welcoming. He explained that the skulls came from a nearby cave where his royal ancestors were laid to rest, but that a recent storm had caused the skulls to fall from the cave and land on the forest floor. Rather than leaving them on the floor to be buried and forgotten, he took them back to his home and created a kind of alter for them. It was a very interesting place with a spooky historic atmosphere, but it didn’t put me off. If anything, it intrigued me even more and I would recommend anyone staying in Nuku Hiva to stop for a visit.

Bob in Hakaui Bay

Bob in Hakaui Bay

We also spent a good day hiking in the forest to reach a waterfall about 2 hours inland through the valley. Unfortunately, due to the risk of landslides we couldn’t make it all the way, which was disappointing to say the least. One of the main reasons I wanted to do this hike was to swim in a serene fresh water pool at the foot of a cascading waterfall. The hike was enjoyable nonetheless and we still got a good view of the waterfall itself – one of the longest on the island. The forest was a wonderful environment to hike in and given my background in ecology, forestry in particular, it felt somewhat familiar. We past numerous historical features and got a sense of how ancient Polynesian settlers might have lived here, seeing their lives through remnants of old roads, walls and buildings still discreetly situated in the forest. We had lunch next to the river where a number of juvenile fresh water eels had become habituated to human presence. The eels were huge! Probably about 4 feet long and the width of a marrow, they sat there looking at us whilst we ate our lunch waiting for some titbits – not too dissimilar from puppy dogs in that respect. We were happy to feed them a crumb or two, but as friendly as they were we still decided they looked far too menacing to swim with. Reluctantly, we decided to head further downstream before we took a dip to cool off.

Marc splashing around in the river

Marc splashing around in the river

Stunning view of the waterfall, albeit from a distance

Stunning view of the waterfall, albeit from a distance

After our time in Hakaui Bay, we attempted to visit Ua Huka, an island to the east of Nuku Hiva with a population of only 600 people. Unfortunately, the wind wasn’t in our favour and there was the added issue of mine and Charline’s sea sickness. I still can’t believe that after all this time I still get sea sick, and this particular trip was the worst yet! We got up at 6am, pulled up anchor and left by 6.05am. I was still half asleep, completely disoriented and no breakfast in my belly to stabilise its lurching. To think I managed an entire 23 days at sea on the voyage to Pitcairn without throwing up – this time I managed just 23 minutes before I was blowing chunks over the stern of the boat. Charline followed suit about half an hour later. With this unfortunate turn of events, we made our way to Baie Du Controleur, a few miles east on the southern coast of Nuku Hiva and anchored there for a few days. Here we relaxed, explored the local village, did some swimming and converted a machete into a coconut grater. I also made sure to take note that in future, I need to get up at least half an hour before setting sail, drink coffee and eat something to avoid any future sea sickness disasters!

You can see the original machete on the right, and the one we converted into a coconut grater on the left

You can see the original machete on the right, and the one we converted into a coconut grater on the left

 

Charline is having far too much fun with that coconut grater!

Charline is having far too much fun with that coconut grater!

After a short stay in Baie Du Controleur we set sail once again, this time for Ua Pou. Ua Pou is an island with a truly spectacular and dramatic landscape. A number of tall phallic outcrops project from the island into the clouds above, comparable with towers of a haunted castle from a fairytale – their summits fading into the misty world above. The bay itself is quite exposed, although there is a small breakwater with enough room behind it to shelter 3 or 4 yachts. We managed to just about squeeze in between two boats with the use of our stern anchor and with the help of a fellow sailor called Daniel. Daniel is a lone sailor from France who is another wonderful guy and typifies the sailing community in his welcoming, helpful and friendly attitude. We spent most of our time in Ua Pou preparing for a long sea journey to Hao in the Tuamotus. We stocked up on tinned, dried and fresh food, replenished our petrol stores, got more gas for the cooker, cleaned the hull, made meals for the journey, filled the water tanks, did the laundry, changed the headsail and so on. We managed to squeeze in a little sightseeing too; we walked over the ridge to another bay, explored the village, had an excursion along the exposed rocky shore outside, swam and had fun jumping off the high dock.

Ua Pou coming into view during our sail from Nuku Hiva

Ua Pou coming into view during our sail from Nuku Hiva

When the time came we headed out to sea, making our way to Hao in the Tuamotus feeling as prepared as we could possibly be. The hull was nice and clean allowing Bob to glide through the water as best she could, the weather was forecast to be a relatively easy beam reach and I was drugged to the eyeballs with Scopoderm and prepared to punch my sea sickness in the face! Knowing that Alex was apprehensive about the trip to Hao I was keen that he enjoyed the journey as best he could and got enough rest as to not find things too stressful. The weather gods did their best to thwart this plan for me on the first night. The entire night was filled with lulls in the wind followed by violent squalls – the likes of which Alex had always made sail adjustments for in the past. For the first time I started adjusting the sails myself, reducing the genoa in anticipation of an approaching squall or letting out the main sheet and going downwind to reduce pressure in the sails. I have no idea whatsoever if I was doing the right thing, but the boat seemed stable, not overpowered and we were heading vaguely in the right direction – so it can’t have been too bad. At least Alex could get some rest and I found that it improved my confidence a lot. In the end this was the only arduous night and the rest of the voyage was a pleasure. Charline did a great job as well, despite feeling very sea sick (even with a Scopoderm patch) she still sat each watch without complaining and helped to wash up and prepare meals as best she could. She seemed to really enjoy the night time watches, counting how many shooting stars she could see and admiring the glowing green phosphorescence in the water. I remember feeling the same way when sailing was new to me – when the beauty of the starry night sky, unspoilt by light pollution, was an uncommon sight to my amateur eyes. Nowadays, there are still moments when the stars absolutely take my breath away, but unfortunately, tiredness overcomes me pretty quickly and even the splendour of the Milky Way cannot diminish the longing for my bed.

Alex is less than happy dealing with a strong squall during the early part of our passage to Hao

Alex is less than happy dealing with a strong squall during the early part of our passage to Hao

We arrived in Hao on day 5 ready to enter the pass of the atoll and into the lagoon. Hao, like many of the atolls in the Tuamotus, is a low-lying ring-shaped coral reef with various islands and motus, some of which have been utilised for civilisation. The atolls are usually formed atop the rim of an extinct volcano or seamount which, over time, has eroded or become submerged, resulting in coral reefs with small stretches of land. Have a look at the satellite images on Google Maps to see what I mean! From what we have seen of the Tuamotus – they are serene, low-lying land masses with a lagoon in the middle and wonderfully clear waters and reef systems which are perfect for snorkelling. In Hao, it’s possible to anchor in the middle of the lagoon – but in order to do so you have to sail through a pass which most of the time has a very strong current surging through it. In order to pass safely, a boat should enter when the tides on the inside and outside of the lagoon are equal, known as ‘slack water’. The tides are influenced by so many different factors that it’s very difficult to estimate the time of slack water in advance. Luckily, it’s easy to gauge how safe the pass will be from simply looking at the movement of the water and assessing the current. In our case, thanks to the wonders of our Satelitte Phone, we were able to receive emails from people who had found the slack water times for Hao by researching it online. Despite our anticipation and anxiety of entering the pass, we did so without any problems. During our stay in the Tuamotus we went in and out of two passes, which might not sound like much but it’s all good experience for when we visit more of these atolls later in the year.

I really enjoyed visiting Hao. The locals are incredibly friendly, and I know I say this about most of the places we’ve visited so far, but this is probably the friendliest place we’ve been to so far in French Polynesia. The landscape is very tranquil and unique. You can walk from the protected inside-edge of the lagoon to the exposed outside-edge in just a few minutes. Even though the two coastlines are so close to each other, it feels like passing though a wormhole into a completely different location as the shoreline habitats are so vastly different from one another. The protected coral reefs inside the lagoon are wonderful places to snorkel and Charline and I had a lot of fun using my new GoPro and doing fish and coral surveys.

Charline and I having fun with my new GoPro

Charline and I having fun with my new GoPro

This is an unusual time of year to be in the Tuamotus as most people have retreated to safer areas, so we expected to be anchored alone here. Amazingly, there were another three boats already in Hao when we arrived – all three of them were on their way to the Gambier Islands to spend the rest of the cyclone season there. Better yet, all three of them spoke English as either their mother tongue, or at least their preferred language over French). It had been almost two months since we met such people and it was lovely to hear English being spoken so naturally and in such a multitude of different accents (Scottish, American, Australian, Croatian and Swiss). Charline and I spent lots of time chatting whilst shell hunting on the beaches and exploring miles of atoll. We had sunset drinks with the other sailors and even got the opportunity to go wake boarding thanks to the generosity of the owners of a boat called Ednbal. They own a wakeboard and had the patience to show us how to use it. We even sent Charline up the mast, just for fun of course, no mast work required on that particular occasion.

Hao

Hao

The anchorage outside Hao village on a nice sunny day

The anchorage outside Hao village on a nice sunny day

Charline on her way up the mast

Charline on her way up the mast

Charline wake boarding with the help of Roger and Sasha, the kind owners of Ednbal

Charline wake boarding with the help of Roger and Sasha, the kind owners of Ednbal

Alex wake boarding. Unfortunately I had done my back in that day and couldn't have a go :-(

Alex wake boarding. Unfortunately I had done my back in that day and couldn’t have a go 🙁

On the dock having sunset drinks and nibbles with the other sailors

On the dock having sunset drinks and nibbles with the other sailors

It was here where Charline left us to fly back to the UK on the 14th December. She was to continue her action packed adventure by camping in the Lake District (in the middle of December I might add and after 6 weeks in the tropics), followed by Christmas with her folks in Normandy then New Years Eve in Ireland. We helped her carry her bags the 4 mile journey to the airport, but after a short walk she managed to hitch a ride, so we quickly said our goodbyes. Looking back on that moment, her departure seemed far too sudden and hasty. One minute she was there, the next she was gone, leaving us in a cloud of dust on the side of the road. Back at the boat everything seemed eerily quiet, her presence definitely stayed with us for a while after she left. Of course there are challenges involved when 3 people live within such close quarters, but it was so nice to have her on board and I missed her almost immediately. I’m so glad I could enjoy Charline’s company for those 6 weeks, to chat with a familiar face about all the memories of my old life, to discuss jobs, dreams, boys and life in general. Our experience definitely brought us closer as friends and I hope that Charline had a wonderful experience and treasured memories to take back with her.

Me, Charline and the stunning waters of the Hao lagoon

Me, Charline and the stunning waters of the Hao lagoon